“Sun is the one thing that really ages your skin significantly, really damages your skin,” says Susan Goodlerner, MD, a former clinical assistant professor of dermatology at UCLA who’s now in private practice in Torrance, California. “Women in their 50s who’ve been careful about sun protection look much younger than women who have not.”
We get half our lifetime’s worth of sun exposure before the age of 20 (because children spend so much time outdoors). If you can be the sensible one who refuses to sunbathe to achieve that optimal, in-vogue tan, your skin will thank you for it later. You will also reduce the risk of getting skin cancer.
The use of sunscreen is the only preventive step that has been scientifically shown to prevent external skin damage and wrinkles, says Donofrio. (The effects of sun damage are called photoaging.) The best sunscreen, dermatologists say, is a broad spectrum sunscreen that blocks out both UVA and UVB rays and has a SPF (sun protection factor) of at least 15. Higher SPFs will give more sun protection by absorbing more of the sun’s rays. You can also use a daily moisturizer that has sunscreen in it.
Finding the right cosmetics
If you find yourself dizzy in the cosmetics section of department stores, you’re not alone: A survey conducted by the American Academy of Dermatology found that 94 percent of women were confused by the vast array of anti-aging treatments available both over the counter and by prescription. Adding to this confusion is the fact that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) doesn’t verify the claims made by cosmetics firms before they go on the market, although many people think that the agency does.
Talk to your primary care physician about your skin problems. He or she may refer you to a dermatologist who specializes in skin care (rather than, say, cosmetic surgery or specific skin diseases). A doctor may be helpful if you have acne, rosacea, or other skin problems that may need prescription medicine.
You may want to see a dermatologist if you’re entering menopause or using birth control pills, since hormonal fluctuations can affect the skin. They can give you personalized advice on a skin care regimen that works best for your particular skin type, says Kauvar.
Don’t be fooled by extravagant claims. If an anti-aging drug or product really did turn back the clock, we’d all be hearing about it. Dermatologists say there are only a few skin care products that have demonstrated the ability — however modest — to reduce or prevent wrinkles or improve the appearance of aging skin. These products include:
- Vitamin creams. Vitamins C, A, and E act as antioxidants that may help counteract the damage caused by free radicals. However, most topical antioxidants have short-term effects or are not absorbed well into the skin. According to Donofrio, studies have shown that using topical creams with vitamin C on your face can protect skin’s elasticity and prevent damage from sun exposure. They can be irritating, so choose one that works for you.
- Topical retinoids (or retinol) derived from vitamin A. Vitamin A derivatives such as Retin A and Renova can diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by sloughing off dead skin cells and increasing the production of new collagen. They can also help fade uneven pigmentation and reverse early sun damage. Stronger retinoids are available only with a prescription. In 1996 the FDA approved Renova (tretinoin) as the first drug to treat wrinkles. Although retinoids do work, topical estrogen creams for the face are not especially effective, says Donofrio.
- Certain exfoliants. Two chemical exfoliants found in creams and gels, alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, can also help the skin repair itself. They can be used as a substitute for stronger retinoids if you find your skin becomes irritated. One common form is called glycolic acid. Beta hydroxy acid can be less irritating; the most widely used is salicylic acid.