“Foodways, I think, is almost as prominent as religion, in terms of how people create ethnic and religious identity,” said Bentley, whose research has focused on food and American culture and society for more than two decades.
If the person has health problems, relatives give unconditional support, said Gomez. But, she said, if a family member makes a personal choice to stop eating foods the family has eaten for generations, they’re less accepting.
Aurelio was the first to change his diet, which had been heavy on beef and low on fruits and vegetables.
The 48-year-old restaurant owner quit eating meat and dairy after he was rushed to a hospital with chest pains. His blood pressure was dangerously high and he had to be hospitalized. He missed his father’s funeral as doctors monitored his heart.
Aurelio was no stranger to heart problems. His father had survived a heart attack, and his paternal grandfather’s stroke was linked to high blood pressure.
“I love my family and I didn’t want to die,” Aurelio said.
Aurelio and Lily Arias (center) with their sons Aurelio Jr. (left) and Aaron at the family’s restaurant and bakery, El Palote Panaderia. (Photo by American Heart Association News)
Back then, Javier also had health problems: high blood pressure, high cholesterol and diabetes. After seeing his younger brother’s health improve, Javier changed his eating habits.
Today, the brothers have each lost more than 60 pounds and their blood pressure and cholesterol are back to normal. Javier also no longer needs medication to control his diabetes.
Their sister Andrea changed the way she ate after medical exams showed she had a fatty liver.
Andrea Alaniz (center, kneeling) with husband Rogelio Alaniz (far left) and their children. (Photo courtesy of Andrea Alaniz)
“I was addicted to steaks,” said the 63-year-old mother of five. “That was one of my favorite vices.”
Andrea has encouraged her meat-eating siblings to try the tacos and enchiladas that Aurelio and Lily offer at their vegan Mexican restaurant. Some have come around.
But Concepcion still doesn’t support his family members’ meatless diet, despite having his own dietary restrictions to help manage his diabetes, high blood pressure, and high cholesterol.
The construction company owner gets sentimental when he talks about the family’s festive gatherings back when everyone ate the childhood dishes they loved.
“When people share in the same experience, it’s more fun, you have a more enjoyable time,” Concepcion said. “Life feels easier.”